Reporters: Wu Weiqun, Yang Aibo (Trainee)

Buy three swimming crabs at a seafood stall, and you can have them cooked right next door. Ready-to-serve boxes are prepared in just 15 minutes for a processing fee of merely 15 yuan. This is not a restaurant kitchen, but a typical scene at the cook-to-order counter of Zhiquan Community Canteen in Shufang Market, Sanlin Town, Pudong New Area.

"Upgrading and renovating 50 standardized wet markets every year" has been listed as one of the Shanghai municipal government's people-benefiting practical projects for four consecutive years. So far this year, 34 standardized wet markets have undergone renovation, completing 68 percent of the annual target. Renovated markets do far more than selling groceries. Cook-to-order services, community canteens, cafés and flower shops are among the mixed-use amenities turning old-style wet markets into new-gathering spots for local residents. In particular, the "you buy, we cook" service has injected fresh everyday-life vitality into standardized markets and made traditional wet markets popular among younger consumers.

Wok-fire convenience for residents

On the evening of August 22, a newly-wed young couple waited for braised swimming crabs at the cook-to-order counter of Zhiquan Community Canteen in Shufang Market. "We are not very good at cooking. They clean, cut and prepare the ingredients for us. Food tastes better cooked over a big commercial stove than at home," said the bride Ms. Sun. It was their first try of the service, and they plan to come back often.

Lin Dongfang, head chef at Zhiquan Community Canteen, explained that simple dishes take about five minutes to cook, while complex seafood may take up to 15 minutes. The counter serves around 20 customers on ordinary days, with even higher volumes during holidays.

On August 23, reporters visited Pushang Neighbourhood Hub Yongtai Store, two kilometers away, where similar services are available. Mr. Tao and his family are regulars at Haoji Suan Cai Yu (Sour-Fish) cook-to-order stall, frequently bringing purchased ingredients for on-site preparation.

Mr. Tao values the convenience and customisable flavour. "Just tell them 'less salt, no chili' and the chef follows exactly what you want."

Shi Jiansheng, site manager of Pushang Neighbourhood Hub Yongtai Store, said the cook-to-order service was launched in July 2024 after market renovation. It receives 40-50 orders at noon and 30-40 in the evening, serving roughly 100 people daily.

"For four or five friends dining together, total costs for raw ingredients plus cooking fees can stay below 200 yuan --- really affordable," Shi noted. Open-kitchen visibility is a major draw: customers select fresh produce themselves and witness the whole cooking process. Reporters observed the full flow from buying ingredients to receiving finished dishes take only 30 minutes.

One service window sparks new-form business

Clear price lists are posted at both markets. At Shufang Market, vegetable-dish processing costs 8-10 yuan, steaming 15 yuan, and braising around 18 yuan. At Pushang Neighbourhood Hub Yongtai Store, processing starts at 10 yuan for vegetables and 15 yuan for meat and seafood. Vendors provide cooking oil, seasonings and rice free of charge. Residents widely approve of the reasonable pricing.

Merchants admit cook-to-order is not a high-profit line. It mainly attracts foot traffic and improves customer loyalty. Their participation is enabled by tangible support from market operators.

"Cook-to-order was rolled out alongside market upgrades in 2025. We want to ease burdens for vendors so local residents can get ingredients processed nearby," said Mai Yongmin, on-site manager of Shufang Market. The cook-to-order counter within the community canteen is rent-free, and rent for the main canteen premises is also reduced --- cutting overall rental costs by about half per year.

With operator support, Zhiquan Community Canteen also gives back to consumers. According to Feng Yao, canteen director, seniors aged 60 and above enjoy a 21-percent discount with senior citizen cards.

Pushang Neighbourhood Hub Yongtai Store offers comparable incentives. While similar food-and-beverage stalls pay nearly 8,000 yuan monthly rent, the cook-to-order stall pays half that rate. The market also provides free dining space in front of the stall and covers air-conditioning, electricity and cleaning expenses.

Reservation phone numbers are posted for time-intensive dishes such as spareribs or whole chicken stews so customers can place advance orders.

Renovation revives authentic neighbourhood vibe

Interviewees repeatedly mentioned "authentic everyday-life atmosphere". Realising cook-to-order services also relied on support from market-regulatory authorities.

Shi Jiansheng explained that traditional wet-market layouts, with mixed raw-and-cooked food zones, carried cross-contamination risks and previously made it hard to obtain a "hot-food production" food-service permit under official review rules.

After Yongtai Wet Market was refurbished into Pushang Neighbourhood Hub Yongtai Store, on-site inspections by the Sanlin Sub-institute of Shanghai Administration for Market Regulation found greatly improved hardware and minimal cross-contamination risk. A hot-food-production permit was therefore granted. Municipal-level food-safety officials later endorsed this local decision.

Standardized-market renovations upgrade physical surroundings and business formats while keeping public-service at the core. Better premises make new functions possible. Qian Shenhao, person-in-charge of Shufang Market, commented: "You would never have seen mothers pushing strollers through the old wet market. Now aisles are wider, spaces are clean and air-conditioned. Many caregivers with strollers come shopping every day."

Visitor statistics reflect the shift: daily foot traffic at Shufang Market has jumped from 2,000-3,000 before renovation to more than 5,000. Brands including Manner Coffee and KFC have moved in to appeal to younger shoppers.

Markets are evolving into multi-purpose community service hubs. Beyond Shufang and Yongtai, cook-to-order services have appeared at Fanxing Food Market in Huacao Town (Minhang District) and Wan'an Market (Wan'an Li) in Zhijing Town (Jinshan District).

Many upgraded markets integrate repair-and-mend services. Ningjia-Huangshan Market runs a barbershop: 10 yuan per haircut for people aged 55+, 15 yuan for others, with no hard-selling or membership pitches. On the second floor of Yumin Market (Jiading District), affordable services cover lock-repair, bag-mending and zipper replacement. At Wuding Market (Jing'an District), an entry-level community lounge hosts a café and book corner, alongside baby-care rooms and pop-up event zones.

Wang Chao, Deputy Director-General of Shanghai Municipal Commission of Commerce, stated that authorities will collaborate with district governments and enterprises to deliver this year's wet-market-upgrade targets, formulate next-year plans and project reserves, and steadily expand the coverage of standardized-market renovation across Shanghai.

Original source (Chinese):
https://www.shanghai.gov.cn/nw4411/20260905/29fe18d7c4334f8fbf2a8690d062f746.html

This English translation is provided for reference and educational purposes only. It is not an official English version published by the Shanghai Municipal Government or Jiefang Daily.